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A wireless video monitor for iPhone
 
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How To...


Connect FieldMonitor to a source

Tip: on iPhone or iPad with cellular, turn Airplane Mode on, then turn Wi-Fi back on. You'll improve display performance and battery life and reduce interruptions from calls, messages, and notifications.

Panasonic cameras, direct connection

Connect your iDevice directly to the camera, using the camera’s own Wi-Fi network. This is the simplest connection method and it often works well, though “via network” connections can offer greater range and better interference rejection using a high-performance access point.

GH5 menus are shown; other Panasonics are similar.

Press MENU/SET, and go to the Setup (wrench) menu:

Wi-Fi menu item

Select Wi-Fi:

Wi-Fi function

Select Wi-Fi Function:

New Connection

Select New Connection:

Remote Shotting

Select Remote Shooting & View. If your camera does not have a Wi-Fi password, you'll see a screen like this:

Wi-Fi ready screen

If your camera uses a Wi-Fi password, you'll see a screen like this (from a GH4):

SSID and password

On your iDevice, go to Settings > Wi-Fi and connect to the camera’s network (enter the camera’s network password if needed):

Once your iDevice connects, you'll see a screen like this on the camera:

Wi-Fi connection completed

On your iDevice, open FieldMonitor. The network shown at the top of the screen should match the camera’s SSID or network name, and the camera should appear in the list:

If the camera’s name isn't shown in the list, tap Refresh. It should appear.

Tap the camera’s name to start monitoring it.

Panasonic cameras, via network

Connect your iDevice and your camera to a separate access point. When you connect using a good access point with beam-forming and advanced interference rejection, your connection will be more stable and work over longer distances than a “direct” connection.

GH5 menus are shown; other Panasonics are similar.

Press MENU/SET, and go to the Setup (wrench) menu:

Wi-Fi menu item

Select Wi-Fi:

Wi-Fi function

Select Wi-Fi Function:

Wi-Fi New Connection

Select New Connection:

Remote Shooting

Select Remote Shooting & View. You'll see a screen like this...

Wi-Fi connection screen

 ...or like this:

Wi-Fi connection screen

Press DISP. on the back of the camera:

seect connection method screen

Select Via Network:

Wi-Fi menu item

You can use WPS if your access point offers it; otherwise select From List. The camera will scan the airwaves and show you available networks (access points):

Wi-Fi menu item

Choose your access point. If your network uses a password, you'll need to enter it on the camera the first time you connect (the camera remembers it for later connections). When the camera connects, you'll see a screen like this:

Wi-Fi menu item

On your iDevice, open the Settings app and go to the Wi-Fi section. Connect to the same network:

Open FieldMonitor. The camera should appear in FieldMonitor’s list:

If the camera’s name isn't shown in the list, tap Refresh. It should appear.

Tap the camera’s name to start monitoring it.

Once you have connected this way once, you can choose “Select a destination from History” in the camera’s Wi-Fi menu the next time you connect, and choose the same network again.

Sony “Smart Remote” cameras

Smart Remote” cameras include the A6300, A6500, A7ii, A7Rii, A7S, A7Sii, and similar cameras.

A6300 screens are shown, with “Smart Remote Control” installed on the camera. Other Smart Remote cameras are similar. If your camera’s menus don't look anything like this, you probably have an integrated remote camera.

Do not select “Send to Smartphone” or “Send to Computer” in the camera’s menus. These functions are only used to transfer images; they do not allow remote control.

Press MENU and select the applications tab:

Select Application List:

Select Smart Remote Control (or Smart Remote Embedded if you haven't installed Smart Remote Control). Wi-Fi will start up...

...and then you'll see this screen:

Press the trashcan button to show the password screen, if you need it:

On your iDevice, go to Settings > Wi-Fi and choose the camera's network. The first time you connect, you'll need to enter the password shown on the camera’s password screen (your iDevice remembers that password for the next time you connect to the camera).

Once your iDevice connects, open FieldMonitor. The network shown at the top of the screen should match the camera’s SSID or network name, and the camera should appear in the list.

If the camera’s name isn't shown in the list, tap Refresh. It should appear.

Tap the camera’s name to start monitoring it.

Sony “integrated remote” cameras

Integrated remote” cameras include the A7iii, A7Riii, A99ii, and similar cameras.

A7Riii screens are shown; other integrated remote cameras are similar. If your camera’s menus don't look anything like this, you probably have a Smart Remote camera.

Do not select “Send to Smartphone” or “Send to Computer” in the camera’s menus. These functions are only used to transfer images; they do not allow remote control.

Press MENU and select the Network or Wireless tab with Ctrl w/ Smartphone in it:

Select Ctrl w/ Smartphone:

Turn Ctrl w/ Smartphone On:

Select Connection:

The camera will start up its network...

...and you’ll see this screen:

Press the trashcan button to show the password screen, if you need it:

On your iDevice, go to Settings > Wi-Fi and choose the camera's SSID (network name). The first time you connect, you'll need to enter the password shown on the camera’s password screen (your iDevice remembers that password for the next time you connect to the camera).

Once your iDevice connects, open FieldMonitor. The network shown at the top of the screen should match the camera’s SSID or network name, and the camera should appear in the list.

If the camera’s name isn't shown in the list, tap Refresh. It should appear.

Tap the camera’s name to start monitoring it.

Tip: turn on Always Connected:

The camera’s battery will drain slightly faster, but you’ll be able to connect to the camera’s network without having to go through all these steps: just select the camera’s network on your iDevice and open FieldMonitor.

Teradek H.264 transmitters

Direct or “Master” mode allows direct connection with no other hardware: you connect your iDevice to the Teradek’s Wi-Fi directly. See Teradek’s documentation for setting up “Master” mode.

“Client” or “Infrastructure” mode uses a separate Wi-Fi router or access point. Client mode often allows greater range because the router’s radios are more powerful, but you need to bring the router into the field and provide power. You can also operate multiple sources on the same network and switch between them without having to change the network on your iDevice. On your Teradek, select “Infrastructure” or “Client” mode, and connect to your Wi-Fi router. See your Teradek's documentation for details.

Hide or Show onscreen controls

Tap the screen to hide controls and data overlays; tap again to display them. To change what gets hidden, tap the control button , tap Hide, then turn hiding on or off for controls, ’scopes, markers, etc.

Show and adjust ’scopes

Tap the control button , tap Scope, then choose the ’scope(s) to be displayed. In any mode where ’scopes overlay the picture, simply drag them to new positions, and pinch them larger or smaller.

Show and adjust markers

Tap the control button , tap Mark, then tap the marker type you want to adjust: use the Show switch to turn it on or off; pick from the options shown; use Show Color / Show Controls to toggle between display and color settings.

You can change the aspect ratio and safe area options available for Frame markers in the Settings menu.

Desqueeze anamorphic pictures

Tap the control button , tap Image, then pick your lens desqueeze ratio. You can also side-crop the desqueezed image to selected aspect ratios (alternatively, you can turn on a frame marker for that ratio instead, and keep the entire image visible).

Flip the image for “mirror mode”, low-mode Steadicam, or mirror-rig monitoring

Tap the control button , tap Image, then turn on Flip V and/or Flip H as needed.

Check focus

Tap the control button , tap Image, then adjust Focus Assist Intensity to the desired level. Edge Mode controls the type of focus assist: Edge Mode off shows a standard peaking signal; Edge Mode on shows a reduced-contrast picture with a bright edge-detection signal.

Check exposure

Use the Y WFM to see where your levels are. You can use FieldMonitor to watch exposure as your camera moves through a scene, checking for overexposure. 

If your iDevice supports false color, set the false color levels to show you over- and under-exposure warnings, and/or use the green level as your target exposure value.

Otherwise, you can use false-color LUTs with camera sources; just be aware that ’scopes measure the image with the LUT applied, and a false-color LUT will cause the ’scopes to show wildly inaccurate results. Turn the LUT on for false-color, turn it off to use ’scopes.

Note that ’scopes and false-color display for Panasonic sources may not be accurate unless FieldMonitor’s levels settings match the camera’s.

Check color

Use the RGB WFMs or the vectorscope to look at color.

When the camera is aimed at a white card, gray card, or grayscale, and is properly white-balanced, overlaid red, green, and blue waveforms will superimpose and turn white. On the vectorscope, the center dot will be properly centered in the crosshairs.

When the camera is aimed at a bluescreen or greenscreen, you can adjust exposure while looking at RGB WFMs or color histograms, checking for the best separation between your key color and the subject’s colors.

Electronically-generated colorbar vectors should fall in the vectorscope target boxes at either the 100% setting (typically EBU full-frame bars, or the fully saturated red/blue/cyan/yellow patches on ARIB bars) or at 75% (SMPTE and ARIB bars).

When shooting a DSC Labs chart with a “V/S Gain x 2” marking, or a Gamma & Density Log chart or Gamma-709 chart, use the 2x setting. In an ideal world, a perfectly set-up camera will put the chart’s vectors into the target boxes. (Unless you’re using a broadcast camera this probably won’t be the case; most cine cameras, camcorders, and DSLR-style cameras use different color and tonal-scale renderings, and the vectorscope pattern often will not match the layout of the target boxes precisely.)

Use LUTs

Select up to three LUTs in the Settings menu after you have imported them. Then, in the Monitor screen, tap the control button , tap Level, and choose the LUT you want to use.

Import LUTs

FieldMonitor can import 3D LUTs in .cube format using iOS file sharing or iTunes file sharing.

iOS file sharing: Email yourself a .cube file, tap and hold it to reveal the iOS sharing sheet, and select “Import with FieldMonitor”. FieldMonitor will launch and import the LUT, after which it will be available in the Settings menu's LUT selections:


A .cube file in an email (the icon shown may vary). Tap and hold it to open the Share Sheet.

.cube files in an email


Find FieldMonitor in the Share Sheet. Tap it to import the LUT into FieldMonitor.

iOS share sheet


FieldMonitor launches, and imports the LUT.

LUT loaded into FieldMonitor


Now you can assign it to a LUT position for immediate use.

LUT ready for use

iTunes file sharing: Connect your iDevice to iTunes. In the device’s Apps settings in iTunes, scroll down to File Sharing and select FieldMonitor. Drag .cube LUT files into FieldMonitor Documents:
 .cube files added in iTunes

If FieldMonitor is running, tap Refresh on the Source Screen to read the .cube files and turn them into .fmlut files. Otherwise, FieldMonitor will read them the next time it is launched. 

.fmlut files are FieldMonitor LUTs. If you delete them while FieldMonitor is running, please tap Refresh on the Source Screen to let FieldMonitor know you’ve deleted them (otherwise, if you try to select one in the Levels controls, it will be displayed as NG—not good—and no LUT will be applied).

Find LUTs


Get Help or report a problem

Please check the main support page or the FAQ in case I’ve answered your question there. If that doesn’t solve your problem, please contact me. I’ll answer as soon as I can and do my best to help you out! (If your email isn’t answered within a day or two, it may have fallen into a spam-trap; try contacting @adamwilt on Twitter instead.)


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© 2018 Adam J. Wilt.  Last updated 2018.06.11